Actives have been a popular skincare ingredient for decades. What do they do? Are they actually effective? We sat down with our board-certified dermatologist, Dr. Gina Marie Caputo, D.O.,who has practiced medical, surgical, and cosmetic dermatology since 2017. Dr. Gina brings a valuable clinical perspective on actives, what they are, and how (and if) you should incorporate them wisely into your skincare routine.
Defining Actives
Q: What are actives, and what does "active" mean in relation to the skin/skincare?
Dr. Gina: “Active” is a term we use for ingredients that are intended to actually do something to the skin beyond simply cleansing or moisturizing it. They’re ingredients we reach for to target a specific concern:
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Acne
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Pigmentation
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Fine lines
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Texture
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Redness
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Signs of sun damage
Retinoids, exfoliating acids, vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, and azelaic acid are all common examples. And stronger isn’t necessarily better. An active only helps if your skin can tolerate it consistently.
Q: What are the benefits of using retinol in a skincare routine?
Dr. Gina: Retinoids are some of the most studied ingredients we have in dermatology. They:
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Help normalize skin-cell turnover
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Improve uneven texture and pigmentation
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Stimulate collagen over time, which can soften the appearance of fine lines
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Can help clear acne (certain retinoids)
The key phrase is over time. Retinol isn’t an overnight treatment. The benefit comes from consistent use over months and years—not from using the strongest product you can find and irritating your skin.
How & If You Should Integrate Actives
Q: How frequently should one use actives in their routine? Does it vary based on age or skin type?
Dr. Gina: Absolutely. There isn’t one schedule that’s appropriate for everyone—or even for every active.
Some ingredients can be used daily, while others may only need to be used a few times a week. Your skin type, the active, its formulation and what else you’re using all matter.
With something potentially irritating like a retinoid, I usually prefer starting a couple nights per week and increasing as tolerated. Even with my acne patients, I recommend starting every other night for the first two weeks and increasing as tolerated. When it comes to anti-aging, I would much rather have someone use a retinoid three nights a week consistently than use it every night, destroy their skin barrier, and stop altogether.
Q: How old is "old enough" for introducing actives into a routine? Does it vary based on age or skin type?
Dr. Gina: There isn’t a magic birthday when everyone suddenly needs actives. It depends on why you’re using them.
Retinoids can be used in teenagers when we’re treating acne, for example. But a teenager with healthy skin doesn’t need a complicated anti-aging routine just because social media told them they do.
For younger patients without a specific skin condition, the priorities are pretty boring—and that’s a good thing: gentle cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen. You add targeted ingredients when there’s actually something you’re trying to treat or prevent.
Q: What kinds of ingredients do actives mix well with, and which should they avoid?
Dr. Gina: I think people sometimes make this much more complicated than it needs to be.
Hydrating and barrier-supporting ingredients, like ceramides, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and squalane generally pair beautifully with actives and can make them much easier to tolerate.
Where I get more cautious is stacking multiple irritating products at once. A retinoid plus a strong exfoliating acid plus another aggressive treatment may technically be possible for someone’s skin, but that doesn’t mean it’s necessary. Retinoids stacked with Vitamin C serums are a common cause of irritation and discontinued use if not introduced correctly especially in sensitive skin types.
Rather than memorizing a giant list of ingredients that can never touch each other, pay attention to the total irritation potential of your routine. It is also beneficial to start slowly and add one product at a time instead of going from no products to a 22 step routine.
Q: Is there a percentage of actives we should look for as consumers?
Dr. Gina: Not universally. Percentage doesn’t tell the whole story. Factors that can influence how a product performs:
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The type of ingredient
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Formulation
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Delivery system
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pH
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Stability
A higher percentage isn’t automatically more effective, and it certainly isn’t automatically better for your skin.
This is one area where skincare marketing can get consumers into trouble because we’re conditioned to think, 10% must be better than 5%. With active ingredients, sometimes that just means more irritation, rather than better results.
Q: Where should actives/retinol go within a skincare routine? (layering order)
Dr. Gina: My general rule is cleanse, treat, moisturize, and—during the daytime—finish with sunscreen. If a patient wants to add a Vitamin C serum, this is where I recommend doing so as it neutralizes free radicals you may encounter during the day. Sunscreen is always the last step!
For a retinoid, I generally recommend applying it at night to clean, completely dry skin, followed by moisturizer. If you’re sensitive, you can use the “sandwich” method: moisturizer, retinoid, moisturizer.
And you don’t need much. For a facial retinoid, a pea-sized amount for the entire face is generally plenty. More does not equal better in this scenario!
Q: How can someone safely introduce actives into their routine if they've never used them before?
Dr. Gina: One at a time. That’s probably my biggest piece of advice.
Don’t buy five new active products and start them all Monday night. If your skin becomes irritated, you won’t know which product caused it.
I also do not recommend starting any actives if you have undergone or will undergo any aesthetic procedure like a chemical peel or laser. Always consult with your provider regarding procedures and timing on actives!
Introduce one product, start slowly—often two or three times a week depending on the ingredient—and give your skin time to adjust before increasing frequency or adding something else.
Some mild dryness can happen when introducing certain actives, particularly retinoids and even alpha and beta hydroxy acids (ie glycolic acid). Burning, significant redness, cracking or persistent peeling is your skin telling you to back off, not something you need to “push through.”
Safely Using Actives
Q: What are some safety tips for using actives, including guidance around use during pregnancy or breastfeeding?
Dr. Gina: First, sunscreen becomes even more important when you’re using ingredients intended to improve pigmentation, photoaging or skin turnover. There isn’t much sense treating sun damage at night and accumulating more of it during the day.
Pregnancy is also a time when I recommend reviewing the entire routine with your dermatologist or OB rather than assuming that because something is sold over the counter it’s automatically appropriate. Retinoids are considered a Category X product which means animal or human studies show clear evidence of fetal abnormalities or permanent damage and that there is no safe dosage. So a good rule of thumb is, if you are pregnant stop all your OTC products and consult with your OB before adding them back.
Topical and oral retinoids should be avoided during pregnancy. There are pregnancy-compatible alternatives for many concerns, including ingredients such as azelaic acid.
Breastfeeding is a little more nuanced depending on the ingredient and where it’s being applied, so that’s something I’d individualize with your physician rather than giving every breastfeeding patient the same blanket routine.
Q: What kinds of skin are more sensitive to actives?
Dr. Gina: If you have rosacea, eczema, an already-compromised skin barrier, or very dry or reactive skin, you generally need to be more cautious. But even someone with historically bulletproof skin can create sensitivity by using too many aggressive products at once.
And that’s probably the overarching message I’d want people to take away: you don’t get extra credit for making your skincare hurt.
The goal isn’t to use the most actives. The goal is to use the right ingredients for your skin, at a frequency your skin can actually tolerate, consistently. Because without consistent use, you miss the benefits.